Day 2: Skull Rock, Barker Dam, Heart Rock

On our first full day at Joshua Tree we visited Skull Rock, the Inspiration Loop Trail, the Barker Dam Loop Trail, the Heart Rock and Arch Rock Loop Trail, and backpacked a short ways on the California Riding and Hiking Trail to camp for the night. It was a fun and busy (but hot) day in the National Park.

First stop: The official Visitor Center at the North Entrance to the park, in the town of Twenty Nine Palms. I’m not going to show much here, because it wasn’t exactly a hike, but we enjoyed the displays, and learned a lot about the geology, ecology, and indigenous people of the region. It was the best of the three visitor centers in the park, in my opinion.

We drove to the North Entrance of Joshua Tree National Park and checked out the Visitor Center — We drove to the North Entrance of JTNP and checked out the Visitor Center

The next stop on our journey was Skull Rock, which was right on the side of the main road, Park Blvd. We took a very short walk to check it out and take the requisite photos. It was over way too soon.

We drove south into Joshua Tree National Park and checked out Skull Rock — We drove south into the park and checked out Skull Rock

Zooming in on Google Maps (which we had pre-downloaded onto our phones as there isn’t a lot of cell signal in JTNP) we noticed the Discovery Trail right across the street from Skull Rock. It wasn’t too hot yet, so we decided to check it out. Once Vicki learned that it was made by kids, well, we simply HAD to hike the entire loop. All 0.68 miles of it! And it was a fun trail, with plenty of informative signs about the granite stone in the park, describing how the odd shapes were formed by nature. Plus a bit about native plants. An easy hike, and well worth the time.

Near Skull Rock was the Discovery Trail, made by schoolkids, and Vicki wanted to hike it

Balancing granite boulders on the Discovery Trail at Joshua Tree National Park — Balancing granite boulders

Yucca plants look like Joshua Trees but have distinctive threads on their leaves

Joshua Tree leaves do not have trailing threads like yuccas do — Joshua Tree leaves do not have trailing threads like yuccas

This rock looks like a critter with its snout pushed in

Side view of Face Rock on the Discovery Trail at Joshua Tree National Park — Side view of Face Rock

The Discovery Trail at Joshua Tree National Park goes right through the slot canyon — The Discovery Trail goes right through a granite slot canyon

The Barker Dam Trail was next on our agenda, and Google Maps sent us down a dirt road as a “shortcut.” Luckily, it was very smooth (not that my 4WD car cares) and relatively quiet, traffic-wise. We saw flowers blooming on the side of the road and had no issues stopping and jumping out for photos. Country driving.

We headed west on a well-plowed Bighorn Pass Road, on the way to the Barker Dam Trail

Desert Primrose blooming along Bighorn Pass Road in Joshua Tree National Park — Desert Primrose blooming along Bighorn Pass Road

By the time we parked at the Barker Dam Nature Trail, it was already getting hot. Temps in the 80’s don’t sound too bad until you’re hiking out in the sun! Luckily for us, the trail stayed level, and was only a mile or so long. We did the loop counter-clockwise, heading directly for the dam. We would have turned around if it was way too hot for Vicki, but she weathered it just fine with the help of her mist sprayer and the dry desert air. There was some actual water pooling behind the dam, which no longer functions as it did back in the pre-park cattle-ranching days, and the old concrete water trough was dry. It would have been impressive if the rainfall was enough to fill the wide basin behind it! But no. Still, we enjoyed seeing standing water in the desert.

We decided to do a loop hike on the Barker Dam Nature Trail at Joshua Tree National Park — We decided to do a loop hike on the Barker Dam Nature Trail

The Barker Dam Nature Trail is popular so it starts out with some posts and cables, but not for long — The trail is popular so it begins with some posts and cables

Blooming Mojave Mound Cactus on the Barker Dam Nature Trail at Joshua Tree National Park — Blooming Mojave Mound Cactus with distinctive red flowers

Barker Dam isn’t holding much water at the moment, but there was a wet spot

Close-up of a fence lizard on a granite boulder at Joshua Tree National Park — Close-up of a fence lizard on a granite boulder near the dam

Looking down at the low water level behind Barker Dam

Cattle water trough that was piped from Barker Dam, now quite defunct — Cattle water trough that was piped from the dam, now quite defunct

The rest of the loop was fairly unremarkable, except that Vicki and I really wanted to see the pictographs. It turned out that Disney, long ago, wanted to film these ancient artworks, and realized that they were too faint for their film. So they increased the contrast by cleaning the granite around the pictograph lines, and also added extra color! Such a sacrilege would never be permitted nowadays. But what’s done is done, and I had to admit that they were much easier to see than others we’ve visited elsewhere.

Vicki after reading about the Catclaw plant, the only plant known to snag her hat’s ribbon

These pictographs were enhanced by Disney technicians many years ago — These pictographs were “enhanced” by Disney technicians many years ago during filming

After the hot hike, it was a relief to get back in the air conditioned car. We looked at the map and decided to head for higher elevation, which was bound to be cooler. The highest spot on a paved road was Keys View, which looked out to the south from the Little San Bernardino Mountain range. It was only in the high 70’s up there, and still a bit warm in the sun, but at least there was a nice breeze. We hung out for a while and looked out at distant peaks that we’ve climbed and hiked in past years. Notably: San Jacinto Peak and San Gorgonio Mountain, two of the three Southern California “Saints” which rise over 10,000 feet elevation. San Antonio, the third saint, was hiding behind Gorgonio.

It was hot so we drove out to Keys View at the end of the road at a higher elevation — It was hot so we drove out to Keys View at the end of the road, at a higher and cooler elevation

Me at Keys View with San Jacinto Peak and San Gorgonio Mountain in the distance

We ate our lunch with a fine view, but, sadly, we could only hang out up in the cool air for so long. Soon, we headed back down the road, and decided to stop at Cap Rock. It was an interesting chunk of granite perched up high on a granite outcropping, There was also a very short nature trail, which we “hiked” as an excuse to stretch our legs. You can only hide in an air conditioned car for so long.

That boulder perched jauntily on top of the monolith is called Cap Rock

Vicki standing under a Joshua Tree on the Cap Rock Nature Trail at Joshua Tree National Park — Vicki standing under a Joshua Tree on the Cap Rock Nature Trail

Vicki had me pose just below Cap Rock to make it look like I was wearing the Cap — Vicki had me pose, hatless, in front of Cap Rock to make it look like I was wearing the Cap

We did a bit more driving, off-road on Geology Tour Road, but the going got a bit tough so we turned around. By that time it was late enough in the afternoon (though still hot) that we felt able to dayhike to check out both Arch Rock and Heart Rock, in the White Tank area of the park. The granite there had some very cool shapes, and hiking was fun. The trail signs weren’t great, but luckily I had my CalTopo Mapping app running and we found our way to both locations. Arch Rock was first, as it was closer to the car. This arch differs from the ones at Arches National Park in Utah in that it is made of weathered granite rather than softer sandstone.

White Tank Granite boulders and crags at Joshua Tree National Park — White Tank Granite boulders and crags as we hiked toward the Arch

We took a short dayhike to view The Arch, a granite arch, much different from the ones in Utah

Vicki posing under The Arch at Joshua Tree National Park — Vicki posing under The Arch

Most people tend to visit Heart Rock rather than the poor, neglected Arch Rock. We don’t discriminate: We simply like shapely granite! Heart Rock was crowded when we first saw it in the distance, but the crowds were gone when we arrived. We took photos of the only remaining couple and they took ones of us. Yes, it was quite a romantic spot, although I’m not showing the photo of the two of us kissing in front of Heart Rock.

We continued our dayhike from the Arch toward Heart Rock (left of center where the people are)

Vicki and I posing in front of Heart Rock, at Joshua Tree National Park — Vicki and I posing in front of Heart Rock, which really looks like a heart

After that, we drove around a bit, and eventually decided that it was late enough in the day to attempt a short mile of backpacking. So back we went to Geology Tour Road and the trailhead parking area near the California Riding and Hiking Trail. Our permit was for the Lost Horse Wilderness section of the park, so we put on our big backpacks and headed west, directly into the sun. Luckily, it was on a gradual downhill slope, so we didn’t overheat. After a mile or so, when CalTopo showed that we were in the wilderness area, we began looking for a campsite. After a bit of wandering, we picked a flat sandy spot a short distance from the trail, and set up camp. By that time, the sun had already set behind some distant hills, and the temperature dropped.

We headed to the Geology Tour Backcountry Trailhead parking lot, and prepared to hike to a campsite

It was after 6pm, and the air was finally getting a bit cooler - time to hike to find our campsite — It was after 6pm, and the air was finally getting a bit cooler - time to hike!

We found a flat spot about a mile west of the trailhead, and set up camp for the night

Sunset light on granite hills near the California Riding and Hiking Trail at Joshua Tree National Park — Sunset light on granite hills near the California Riding and Hiking Trail

We ate a freeze-dried dinner and headed into the tent as the sun went down. There weren’t any clouds to make a pretty sunset, but the surrounding hills were still beautiful. Then we got out the map and decided on tomorrow’s plan. We had a lot in mind, and it was certain to be another great day in the park.

For a topographic map of the hike see my CalTopo Page

For LOTS more photos of the trek see my Flickr Page

Day 2: Skull Rock, Barker Dam, Heart Rock

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